Sur Directa de los Martínez
South Face Pico Urriellu – Guided climbing
The Vía Sur Directa de los Martínez is the shortest and fastest route to reach the summit of Picu Urriellu or Naranjo de Bulnes. Thanks to its exceptional rock quality and affordable difficulty, today it is one of the most repeated routes, together with its neighbors Cepeda y Pidal and Cainejo.
It has a variety of passages, great atmosphere and spectacular views of the Jou tras el Pico, Torre del Carnizoso, Collada Bonita and the entire northern slope of the Eastern Massif of the Picos de Europa.
All this makes it a complete activity of mountaineering and maximum enjoyment.
Opened on August 13, 1944 by Juan Tomás and Alfonso Martínez with Luis Bueno, Julio Casal, Simón Isari, Pedro Landache, Alfredo Pulido and Tomás SanJusto.
- Approach: From the Vega de Urriellu Refuge to the foot of the trail, approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes.
- Length of the climb: approximately 150 meters.
- Difficulty: Maximum V+.
- Duration of the complete activity: About 3 hours for the climb, 2 hours for the approach and 1.5 hours for the return (Total about 8 hours).
- Descent: In three rappels on the same route.
A certain amount of experience in natural rock climbing is required, having done 4th or 5th grade second routes.
(If you have no experience, the guide will offer the possibility of a 4-hour course in the Vega de Urriellu near the refuge on the same day of arrival).
Have done high mountain routes of more than 8 hours of duration and 1000 meters of positive difference in altitude.
It is also advisable to have made some ascents in Picos de Europa such as: Peña Vieja, Torre de la Palanca, Torre Cerredo, etc...
Equipment required per participant: (Depending on the time of year and weather conditions this information may vary in number and type of clothing and footwear. The guide will inform upon reservation)
- Technical trekking boots
- Trekking poles
- Long elastic mountain pants
- Technical short sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Technical long sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Softshell / primaloft
- Down or fiber jacket
- Medium or light gloves (optional)
- Cell phone with charged battery
- Headlamp with batteries (important)
- Solarcream SPF 50
- Mountain backpack 40L
- Canteen or water bottle minimum 2L
- Refreshments during activity (bars, dried fruits, etc.)
Normally the meeting is at the Vega de Urriellu Refuge the day before the activity, around 7 pm. Once introduced, the guide will provide the participant with the necessary material, explain concepts and review the material needed for the activity. During dinner, which is at 8:00 p.m., we will be able to chat and discuss all kinds of doubts and we will talk about the schedule for breakfast and departure the following day.
This schedule varies depending on the time of year and the weather.
We will leave prepared from the Refuge by the path that will take us to the Canal de la Celada, through which in a short but intense climb we will skirt the entire north face of Picu Urriellu.
After finishing the channel we will continue climbing along a more comfortable path below the imposing east face of the Picu, until we reach the steps of the south face.
We will make an easy and short climb and we will be at the base of the route where we will put on the material and discuss the last safety and progression instructions. The climb usually takes about two to three hours. After four pitches of climbing, we still have to climb up the short rope channel that takes us to the summit ridge and from here to the summit.
Once at the summit we have time to eat something to eat, take some pictures and chat. Afterwards, we will begin the descent by the same path that we climbed up to the rappels. We will make three rappels and arrive at the base where we will pick up and begin the descent to the Vega by the same route we took on the way down.
Normally between 12:00 noon and 3:00 p.m. you are back at the refuge.