Picu Urriellu – Guided climbing in Picos de Europa
The Naranjo de Bulnes Directísima is the second route opened on the spectacular West Face of the Picu Urriellu after the Rabada and Navarro.
The Directísima on the west face of Picu Urriellu has not yet become one of the classics of difficulty of the Picos de Europa, perhaps because of the great controversy that produced its opening based on expansion pitons (“Pes”). Even so, it is a route of exceptional quality, recommended for people with a lot of experience who move well on big walls of difficulty.
It is quite well equipped with expansion pitons (“Pes” by Charlet Moser), has 15 lengths and a mandatory level of 6b.
The hardest pitch is the first one (a strange chimney that precedes a magnificent sea of gray rock).
- Approach: From the Vega de Urriellu hut to the foot of the trail, approximately 30 minutes.
- Length of the climb: approximately 550 meters.
- Difficulty: 7b or (6b) A2 required.
- Duration of the complete activity: Between 8 and 12 hours.
- Descent: In three rappels on the south face.
Regular experience in classic climbing is required, as well as being able to do 7a routes in sport climbing as a first ropper with fluency.
Have done high mountain routes of more than 8 hours of duration and 1500 meters of positive difference in altitude. It is also advisable to have done some classic climbs in Picos de Europa such as: Mar de sueños al Agero, Rojo libanes to Horcados rojos, Reino de León to Peña Santa, etc...
Material required per participant: The guide will send a specific list of the necessary equipment per participant when booking the activity. (Depending on the time of year and weather conditions, this information may vary in number and type of clothing and footwear. The guide will provide information upon reservation)
- Technical trekking boots
- Trekking poles
- Long elastic mountain pants
- Technical short sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Technical long sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Softshell / primaloft
- Down or fiber jacket
- Medium or light gloves (optional)
- Cell phone with charged battery
- Headlamp with batteries (important)
- Solarcream SPF 50
- Mountain backpack 40L
- Canteen or water bottle minimum 2L
- Refreshments during activity (bars, dried fruits, etc.)
Normally the meeting is at the Vega de Urriellu Refuge the day before the activity, around 7 pm. Once introduced, the guide will provide the participant with the necessary material, explain concepts and review the material needed for the activity. During dinner, which is at 8:00 p.m., we will be able to chat and discuss all kinds of doubts and we will talk about the schedule for breakfast and departure the following day.
This schedule varies depending on the time of year and the weather.
We will leave from the shelter to the foot of the west face, about 20 minutes approximately. When we arrive at the foot of the route, we will equip ourselves and review the safety and progression instructions. Normally the climb is done in about 8 to 12 hours.
Once at the summit we have time to eat something to eat, take some pictures and chat. Afterwards, we will begin the descent along the ridge until we reach the channel that after a few easy descents will lead us to the amphitheater of the south face where we will begin the rappels. We will make three rappels and arrive at the base where we will pick up and begin the descent to the Vega by the same route we took on the way down.
Normally between 17:00 hours and 19:00 hours you are back at the refuge.