Amistad con el Diablo
Naranjo de Bulnes – Climbing with guide
Picu Urriellu with guide. Amistad con el Diablo, V+
The Amistad con el Diablo route is a modern route with a more sporty style, but still a self-protection route.
Cross the spectacular plate of the east face of the Picu Urriellu from its base on an exceptional rock at all levels.
It shares its last two pitches with the Cepeda route, and is a very complete activity of moderate difficulty.
- Approach: From the Vega de Urriellu hut to the foot of the trail, approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes.
- Length of climb: approximately 350 meters of climbing.
- Difficulty: Maximum V+.
- Duration of the complete activity: About 4 hours for the climb and another 4 hours for the approach and return (Total about 8 hours).
- Descent: In three rappels on the south face.
Natural rock climbing experience is required, having done V+ routes in sport climbing as a rope first with fluency.
Have done high mountain routes of more than 8 hours of duration and 1000 meters of positive difference in altitude.
It is also advisable to have made some ascents in Picos de Europa such as: Peña Vieja, Torre de la Palanca, Torre Cerredo, etc...
Equipment required per participant: The guide will send a specific list of the equipment required per participant when booking the activity. Depending on the time of year and weather conditions, this information may vary in number and type of clothing and footwear. The guide will provide information upon reservation
- Technical trekking boots
- Trekking poles
- Long elastic mountain pants
- Technical short sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Technical long sleeve mountain t-shirt
- Softshell / primaloft
- Down or fiber jacket
- Medium or light gloves (optional)
- Cell phone with charged battery
- Headlamp with batteries (important)
- Solarcream SPF 50
- Mountain backpack 40L
- Canteen or water bottle minimum 2L
- Refreshments during activity (bars, dried fruits, etc.)
Normally the meeting is at the Vega de Urriellu Refuge the day before the activity, around 7 pm. Once introduced, the guide will provide the participant with the necessary material, explain concepts and review the material needed for the activity.
During dinner, which is at 8:00 p.m., we will be able to chat and discuss all kinds of doubts and we will talk about the schedule for breakfast and departure the following day. This schedule varies depending on the time of year and the weather.
We will leave prepared from the Refuge by the path that will take us to the Canal de la Celada, through which in a short but intense climb we will skirt the entire north face of Picu Urriellu. After finishing the channel we will continue climbing along a more comfortable path below the imposing west face of the Picu, until we reach the steps of the south face.
When we reach the top of the Celada we will only have to continue climbing for about 20 minutes more on a more comfortable path to the base of the imposing east face.
We will put on the equipment and discuss the latest safety and progression instructions. The climb normally takes about three hours. After 6 pitches of climbing we will make two more common pitches with the brushwood, these with a more classic cut, variety in their passages and of less difficulty, will take us to the hole that will lead us to the amphitheater of the south face, from where we will only have to go up the short rope channel that takes us to the summit ridge and from here to the summit.
Once at the summit we have time to eat something to eat, take some pictures and chat. Afterwards, we will begin the descent by the same path that we climbed up to the rappels. We will make three rappels and arrive at the base where we will pick up and begin the descent to the Vega by the same route we took on the way down.
Normally between 14:00 and 16:00 we are back at the shelter.